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Along the Ipswich River, 1860-1930

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Follow the Ipswich River, starting at the Willowdale Dam and continuing past all four stone arch bridges in Ipswich, then along Water Street to the Town Wharf and out to sea. Many of these photos were digitally developed by the Town Historian from original glass negatives taken by three early Ipswich photographers:

  • Arthur Wesley Dow, the famous Ipswich artist who operated a summer art school at the Howard House on Turkey Shore Rd. Dow and George Dexter were friends and were photography enthusiasts.
  • George Dexter, early Ipswich photographer. These glass plate negatives are from the collection of Robert Cronin, Ipswich native. Dexter left his collection of glass plates in the barn owned by Cronin’s father. Robert wrote about working at his father’s store on the wharf.
  • Edward L. Darling, glass plate negatives courtesy of Bill Barton, from the collection of Bill’s late grandfather William J. Barton. In the 1960’s, William J. Barton wrote his memories of these locations on the back of his framed collection of Darling photographs. His notes accompany the photos below.
  • Other photos are from the Town Historian’s archives or courtesy of the Ipswich Museum. The identity of these photographers are often unknown.

Additional information is from The Industrial History of the Ipswich River, produced by Alan Pearsall and John Stump.

Clicking on a photo opens a slideshow. Exit the slideshow by clicking on the small X in the upper left corner.

The Willowdale Mill: In February of 1824, permission was given to build a dam here in order to provide water power for a mill, but it was not built until 1829. This dam was said to be about 6’ tall in a 1918 report and is still standing today. Foote Brothers Canoe Rentals was established here in 1955 and is still in operation today with second and third generation family members operating the business.The first mill built here was a Sawmill in 1829. In 1834 it was converted into a Textile Mill. It produced hosiery as well as woolen goods and was in operation until a fire in January of 1884 destroyed it. The foundation can still be seen today. A long sluice-way was built here and runs parallel with the river, directing the water flow under the mill. (from "The Industrial History of the Ipswich River.") Photo by Edward L. Darling, from the collection of William J. Barton. Mill Rd. /Highland St. Bridge: Just upstream from the Mill Road/Highland St. bridge, an earlier bridge was built about 1667, but no longer exists. The current bridge was built between 1829 and 1832, with three stone arches. The bridge was severely damaged and closed after the Mothers Day Flood of 2006, and re-opened May of 2009.
This site was first in use in 1697 as a fulling mill. In 1794. a carding machine and a picking machine were added. Sometime around 1857 it was converted to an Isinglass Mill. This mill was in use until approximately 1912. In the late 1880’s, it was producing 100,000 pounds of isinglass annually. The building was torn down in 1919, but portions of the foundation and sluiceway can still be seen today. On the Hamilton side of the bridge, a grist mill was built at this location in 1697 and continued in operation until 1918. A saw mill was added circa 1750, and was also in operation as of 1918. By 1880, a cider mill had been added and was in operation until 1919, when the property was sold. During the year 1887, the cider mill consumed more than 10,000 bushels of apples, resulting in the production of 35,000 gallons of cider, and in 1918 the mill produced 60,000 gallons.
After a fire in 1822, a new structure was built to house the grist and cider mill that is still standing today. From the bridge, you can see the remnants of the dam. The original dam at this location was built in 1697 in conjunction with the building of the fulling and grist mill. It was allowed to be built 3′ above the river’s normal level. It can be assumed that it was torn down when the mills no longer operated at this location. (From "The Industrial History of the Ipswich River.") Upstream from the Ipswich Mills was an ice house, built about 1890 on the river off of Haywood S. It is thought to have burned in the 1940’s. Ice was harvested from the river and stored here for use throughout the year. In 1938 the ice being harvested from the river was 14″ thick. If the river did not freeze enough, ice was brought down in boxcars by rail from the north. (from "The Industrial History of the Ipswich River") Photo courtesy of Bill George. Just above the dam was Goodhue’s Boathouse, at the end of Peatfield St. It was in business as early as 1891, and rented boats for recreation as well as offering accommodations. The location is a public canoe launch today. (from "The Industrial History of the Ipswich River") Photo courtesy of Bill George Above the Mill dam. Photo courtesy of Bruce Lord Footbridge from South Main to the Mill, circa 1900. Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow. The Ipswich Mills "Little Venice" is the name Arthur Wesley Dow gave to the rear of houses and shops on South Main St. Little Venice, by Arthur Wesley Dow. The Choate Bridge, with the  Caldwell Building on the left and the Ipswich Female Seminary beyond it. The Choate Bridge. On the right is the building that was Emmie's Bridal Shop The Choate Bridge, from the northeast riverbank. Many people remember the building on the right as Bill's store. William J. Barton wrote, "The parades were longer in those days. The parade would form on Hammatt and side streets, and would proceed up Central Street to Lord Square, then up High to the junction of Locust Street, then counter march down to East Street to Wilcomb Square, and sometimes to the Lower Wharf, back up East to Willcombs Square, then to the corner of Summer and County Street, down Summer Street to Water Street, then cross the Green Street Bridge, down Turkey Shore Road to Poplar, then up Payne Street onto Argilla Road, then up Linden to Ward Street, then down County Street to S. Main Street to Market Square, and from there disband. 
All the business firms would be represented by horse-drawn wagons representing their stock of trade. Derby Atkinson had 5 teams driven by his drivers, calling attention to the fish business, which was located at 16 County St. I rode on the team. All fraternal organizations would be represented by marvelous floats. The usual number of bands and drum and fife corps accompanied. Photo by George Dexter. The County St. Bridge In 1673, a fulling mill was built here and a grist mill in 1715. It is believed a grist mill was in operation here until at least 1872. As early as the 1720’s this location was used as a wharf, and soon thereafter a shipyard was established. The town voted on March 11, 1861 to build this bridge due to the roundabout way people were forced to travel with the many heavy loads heading to and from the wharves along the river. Prior to the dam being built water power for the early mills here was generated largely due to the Falls, There is still remnants of a dam here today. In 1863, a mill was built at this location to produce yarn, and within 5 years it was producing hosiery. The mill complex was eventually used as a box factory and a warehouse before being torn down about 1920. During the 1870’s Ipswich was receiving shiploads of corn, carrying as much as 3,000 to 5,000 bushels at a time. For many years a sawmill was in operation here. The first one is believed to have been in use by 1652, and the last standing sawmill here was in 1902, although not in use at the time. (from "The Industrial History of the Ipswich River.") Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow The County St. Bridge. William J. Barton wrote, "In December, 1860, Ira Worcester and others of Ipswich, Hamilton, Wenham and Essex addressed a petition to the County commissioners. At that time, Cross Street as it was called, terminated at Green Street (the present day County Street) and all travel towards Hamilton passed  over Town Hill , down the hill and over the Choate Bridge. The petitioners characterized this route as very circuitous and hilly, and inconvenient. The County Commissioners laid out the new road on March 5, 1861. The town voted on March 11 to build the bridge. The County Street stone arch bridge was built in 1861 by the town at a cost of $7896.75. Thomas J. Roberts, and Ipswich citizen who was a master builder on the Boston City Hall, the Thatcher Island Lighthouse etc. was the superintendent." Photo by George Dexter. William J. Barton wrote, "The Ipswich Woolen Mill, County Street, Ipswich MA, sometimes called the Lower Mill. Beyond the County Street bridge and Cove is Turkey Shore Road.To the right of the chimney is the Plouff house. The next long building was at one time a distillery where rum was made, later a tannery around 100 years ago. The three houses now belong to Mrs. Chester Bolles. Across the bridge at the right end of the mill is Canney lumber. Photo by Edward L. Darling. County St. and the two steeples circa 1860, before the Ascension Church was built. The identify the building directly behind the Methodist Church is unknown. The former Episcopal parsonage is at that location now. William J. Barton wrote: This picture was taken from Turkey Shore Road from a point by Ausgustin H. Plouff's or Chester Bowles' house. On the extreme left is the Lower Mill, which at time was a woolen mill. Behind the barn on the left is the Ipswich Girls Seminary Building, and the North Congregational parish house. On North Main St. is the flag pole at the soldiers monument where each morning since 1910 someone from the Post Office would put up the flag. The flags were furnished by the weather bureau, telling what the weather would be. In back of the trees can be seen the Damon Building on County St. The white house sat on the side of the Episcopal Church. Next are the steeples of the North Congregational and Methodist churches.The white house on the right with the mansard roof was built by William Willcomb, owned afterwards by his daughter Mrs. Carrie Angus.The Methodist Parsonage at 27 County St. is to the right. Photo by Edward L. Darling. View of the County St. mills from the Cove at Poplar St. Photo by Edward L. Darling. A Distillery for the manufacture of rum was located along Turkey Shore as early as 1765. It continued its operation until 1836, when it was sold and converted into a Tannery, which was still in operation in 1872. The riverbank that now hosts the Sidney Shurcliff Riverwalk was used as a campsite by Native American’s to fish during the spring spawning. Two and three-masted sailing ships loaded and unloaded wares in the Great Cove, timing their arrival and departures with the tide. (From "The Industrial History of the Ipswich River.") The  Green St. Bridge is ahead, with the jail on the left, photo by Edward L. Darling Great Cove, view  of the jail from Turkey Shore. Photo by George Dexter. William J. Barton wrote, " The picture is the Ipswich House of Correction, and in the foreground is the lower dam, that furnished water power to a grist mill, in my time called Damon's Mill and Carter's Mill. The House of Correction was torn down and on the site was built the new Ipswich High School, which opened in September 1933." Photo by Edward L. Darling Looking back from downriver by George Dexter. William J. Barton: "The Green Street Bridge was built in the summer of 1894. While I am not quite 100 years old, I am the only man alive that worked on it. I was too young to work for pay, but neverless I worked on it. In order to buiild a bridge of this type, wooden arches have to be built. These arches were built of plans 12 or 14 inches wide. The planks would measure 6 ft. long, and each plank would be butted together, then another plank the same length would be layed over the two first plansks. Then a series of holes would be borded through the top, and the first layer of said planks, then wooden pins, would be inserted in the holes of each plank, and be driven in by a pin mall. The planks would be formed in a half circle the shape of the arches to be built. These arches of wood would be stood up about two feed apart, then the granite would be placed on the arches, starting at the bottom on both sides, and continuing to the top. Then the last granite slab would be placed between the last two top granite slabs to form a key. No amount of weight placed on the bridge could ever budge it.
If my memory doesn’t fail me, I think Edward W. Choate, carpenter and contractor had the contract to build the wooden arches. My father William E. Barton worked for him. Myself a young boy, I would place the wooden pins in the holes bored in the planks, and my father would drive them home with a pin mall. My father had a Massachusetts Bay Pilot license and brought up some of the granite from Rockport, Mass that went into the bridge. Several hundred people were on hand when the rock sloop came up the river. On a high course tide, the river had at most 12 feet of water. A rock sloop was a wide boat and did not draw much water. The Green Street Bridge with plank driveway was built in 1882 by Joseph Ross Esq., contractor for $4500. The filling in and grading were done by the town." Photo by Edward L. Darling Green St. Bridge view from Water St. Photo by George Dexter. The Green St. Bridge and the Howard House. Photo by George Dexter. William J. Barton Wrote, "This is Water Street from Summer to Green Street, Ipswich, Mass. For a long time it was called "Clam Shell Alley." The old wooden bridge in the distance was condemned, and a new stone arch bridge was built in 1894. For several years, I have been the last living man who worked on the bridge (not for pay). I helped my father as a boy working on wooden arches that held the granite in place. The Ipswich County House (House of Correction) is at the extreme right of the picture. My father, William E. Barton, had a Massachusetts Bay pilot license, and he piloted the rock sloop loaded with granite to build the new stone arch bridge. The river is not to deep." Photo by Edward L. Darling. Photo by Edward K, Darling. William J. Barton wrote, "The lower part of Ipswich River, Ipswich Mass from the Green Street Bridge. The first building on the left was a fish shanty. The three men who ran the fish market peddled by horse and wagon was Lewis Grant, Dennison Rush, called 'Dense'. and Charles Rush. Every day they boiled lobsters and one, almost a foot long, sold for 10 cents. All the children in the neighborhood would sit on ice chests over the water in rear of the building in all of the stream as the above men we thought were old fellows boiled a pot of crabs for us children. "Happy Days!" Next to the building was the best town landing on the river. There was no road beyond this building along the river in those days. The next little building beyond the fish shanty was used at one time by Robert (Bob) Gone, and I think by my father to keep fishing gear. They and a crew of men fished along the South Shore for herring. The nice house with the flag pole was the home of Howard Dodge (now Raymond Dodge's home). The little building in front was a sand house. He sold sand to masons to make plaster. My father would bring a dory full of sand he would get on Ipswich bar for Mr. Dodge. One of these boats is anchored here, and is likely to be his." Photo by Edward L. Darling Looking back at the Green Street Bridge and the jail from Turkey Shore.  Photo by George Dexter. Clam shacks, with the earlier wooden Green St. Bridge in the background. Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow. Water Street: A shipyard was in operation here in 1673, and it was also the location of a tannery as early as 164, thought to have continued until the 1690’s. In 1652, this location was being used for the manufacture of salt from seawater. This was also one of 3 locations along the river where the Choate Family operated a shipyard. A wharf was built in this area in 1756 and was often used for unloading molasses from the West Indies for use in the distillery. John S. Glover operated a coal wharf at this location. (From "The Industrial History of the Ipswich River.") Photo by George Dexter Clam shacks on Water St. at high tide. Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow. Clam shacks on Water St, low tide, by Arthur Wesley Dow. This house on Water St was just past the clam shacks. Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow. Clam boats on Water St. with Glover's Wharf in the background. Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow. Shucking clams on Turkey Shore. Glover's and Brown's Wharves are across the River. Photo by George Dexter. Looking across to Summer St. from the little park on Turkey Shore. Photo by Edward L. Darling. View of Summer St. from Turkey Shore by George Dexter. Glazier-Sweet house on Water St. Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow. Looking across to Turkey Shore, photo by George Dexter. William J. Barton wrote, "The lot where the trees are is at what is now the corner of Summer St. and Water St., Ipswich Mass. At this time there was no street along here. The original picture was made by John Staniford, I'm quite sure. Mr. Edward L. Darling said he lived in Rockport, Mass. He was a brother of Augustin Staniford of Highland Avenue, Ipswich (I knew as a boy) and Mary Jane Staniford a sister I knew and also a sister Mary S. Staniford of Summer St. I can remember as a boy around 1894 there was a very old house next to this, owned by a Mr. Ephraim Grant, a boatman that was torn down, quite sure in 1961. Mr. Franklin Waters' History of Ipswich speaks about a grant or deed of land to him. Next to the Grant house was a boat house, large building, for storing yachts and boats for winter, owned by Howard C. Dodge.
The next long building was part of Choate Shipyard. Charles Choate moved from Essex in 1834, built ships at Bakers Wharf. He had two sons, Edward W. Choate and Lewis, from the Directory 1888. Baker's Wharf must afterward have been called Choates Wharf around 1900. Charles Choate afterward moved his shipyard at the foot of Green St. where the Green Street bridge now is. The next house in the picture was the Choate house. Herbert Choate, my age, lived here as a boy. His father must have been Lewis Choate. Edward W. Choate, who lived at 12 East Street in my time built ships at Rogers Point at the Rogers property, just opposite Ring Bolt Rock, just below the lower wharf he built the Lucy K. Cogswell in 1868, and the red Gray in 1869 (my father William E. Barton sailed in the Fred Gray). He built the Mattie G. in 1875 and the steamer Carlotta in 1878. Fred Gray was lost in the West Indies. Lucy K. Cogswell ended up at the bottom of the harbor at Edgartown.
The 3 little shacks to the right of the first house were clam houses. Men who dug clams kept their gear here and shucked their clams as is quite evident by the pile of white clams on the bank. Three dorys used to go clamming. Beyond the last shanty is a little bridge made of rails (thick boards) that spanned a brook the length of Dodges field through the land of John F. Barton and William E. Barton and across Summer St.to this side of Green St.
Photo by Edward L. Darling William J. Barton wrote, "The big building was at one time the Custom House, and was used as a lumber barn, owned and run by William G. Brown, who built the house at 13 Topsfield Road in Ipswich. He was also in the grain business, and sold land. My father William E. Barton at 26 Summer St. and William (Bill) Jewett, who lived next door, would hire a schooner at Newburyport, MA and freight lumber from Bangor, Maine in the summers for Mr. Brown.
When I was a boy around 12 years old (64 years ago), Charles W. Rollins, a building mover, moved the building to the corner of Hammett Street and Brown Square. It was used for a grain mill by William G. Horton, torn down perhaps 15 years ago. Just this side of the building we called the Granite Wharf Rock, sloops from Rockport, Mass brought long slabs of granite here. Granite was used for curb stones along sidewalks, and also was used by August J. Barton for monumental work.
The next building was the coal shed run by John S. Glover, back in 1888, and several years later by Charles Lovell. Two and three masted vessels delivered coal to the wharf until vessels got to be a thing of the past. Then they came by rail. We called this Glover's Wharf. Where the vessels are, we called the lower wharf. At one time I think this was also Brown's Wharf. Later Paul Eames ran a coal and wood business here. The Carlotta Steamer landed at this wharf."
Photo by Edward Darling, courtesy of William Barton. William J. Barton wrote, "The wharf where the vessel was tied up was known as Glover’s Wharf. The vessel was delivering a shipload of coal to John S. Glover. The vessel carried about 350 tons of coal. Wood and oal were burned for fuel, and coal was sold for $6.50 / ton. No kerosene was used for fuel at this time, except for in lamps for light. Mr. Glover dealt in coal, lime and cement. He lived at 66 East Street on the corner of Cogswell Street. The coal was delivered by William P. Ross in a dump wagon, and drawn by a pair of horses. Ross lived at 53 East Street. Later on the business was taken over by Charles L. Lovell." William J. Barton wrote, "What is now Water Street, Ipswich, Mass. from right to left: Howard C. Dodge boat house, Ephraim Grant house. The boat house burned down,and the Grant house was torn down around 1958. The next house is still standing on the lot this side of Summer Street house. Beyond on left are fish houses, and clam houses running from Summer St.on what is now Water Street, once called "Clam Shell Alley." Photo by Edward L. Darling Ipswich River by George Dexter Relaxing on Turkey Shore William J. Barton wrote, "The lower wharf in the picture was known as Brown’s Wharf. William G. Brown dealt in wood, coal, lime, sand and cement. His office in the rear of the wharf was the Agawam house where he ran a liver y and hack stable, and orders for the above commodities were left at th office of Agawam Stable and at his residence at Topsfield Rd.  At Brown’s Wharf, Joseph F. Claxton ran a restaurant, one of the finest shore dinners. No one could fry a better clam than Mrs. Claxton. In later years, Brown’s Wharf was operated by Paul R. Eames, who dealt in coal and wood. This was around the year 1890." Buildings on Water St. Photo by Arthur Wesley Dow Clam boats before the Town Wharf was built, with Agawam Ave. in the background. Photo by George Dexter. Alice Keenan wrote, "This picture shows the Town Wharf circa 1890, and the masts of a coal schooner unloading in front of Brown’s wharf and warehouse. In the background standing well beyond Agawam avenue is the Edward Choate shipbuilding yards. Here he built among others: “The Lucy Cogswell” in 1868; “The Fred Gray” in 1869; “The Mattie F” in 1875 and what has to be the most photographed excursion boat of them all, “The Carlotta” in 1878. The boats were launched down a tiny little railway that ran into the river and whose rails could still be seen a dozen or more years ago before they silted over.
In the background is the tiny cottage that later served as the summer home of Miss Claretta Rogers whose family then owned the old Newmarch house on Agawam avenue and the entire sweep of acreage from the river bank back onto Newmarch street. In the center of the picture is the ever-present “Ringbolt Rock.” This ancient guardian of the tiny harbor was so named because of the giant iron rings that somehow or other were fastened to its slippery surface and helped pull the boats around the point when the going got sticky. Similar iron rings dotted Nabby’s Point and other spots along the river and remained in place until gathered up in the great scrap metal drives of World War II." Photograph by Arthur Wesley Dow. William G. Barton wrote, "This is the Lower Wharf, also called Brown's Wharf. The building where the vessel is tied up is located where once there was a shipyard. At low tide, the steamer Carlotta would take on passengers where the vessel is tied up. My father, William E. Barton, and William Jewett both of Summer Street would hire a two-masted vessel in Newburyport and freight lumber from Bangor Maine to Ipswich, MA for William Brown, who lived at 13 Topsfield Road, later the home of William Mayes. Frank and Howard Jewett, sons of the above William, would go as crew." Photo courtesy of Billy Barton Water St. from across the River, photo by George Dexter. The Town Wharf circa 1930 Two girls standing on Ringbolt Rock William J. Barton wrote, "From Brown’s Wharf, the steamer Carlotta, a local steamboat owned by Nathaniel Burnham and Charles W. Brown sailed daily and carried passengers on the Ipswich River and Parker River. The Carlotta also was used as a tug boat for towing vessels up and down the river. The Carlotta carried 200 passengers with Captain Burnham as captain, plus an engineer and deck hand. Her stops on the daily trip were at Little Neck for 10 cents. The Ipswich Bluffs, 15 cents, Grape Island 20 cents, and the complete round trip to the Parker River at Newbury for 40 cents.It was very pleasant, about 12 miles.
Before the advent of the electric cars and the automobile, people took advantage of this clean and pleasant way to travel. Various organizations on moonlight nights would run excursions. Among them were the Ottawa Club, a popular group of young ladies, and a musical organization known as the Ipswich Fife and Drum Corps. The Drum Corps would march from the center of town to the wharf, followed by a large crowd. At about 7:30 pm the Carlotta would sail. The drum corps played music all the way over to the Parker River, where they would run a dance. Refreshments could be purchased at the Pavilion. It was always high tide at eleven o’clock on a full moon, so they would start the return trip home. There was no music on the return trip. Every one would cuddle up to someone on the steamer as it was cold in the early morning, and enjoy the full moon. After all, that was what this excursion was run for.
This was a wonderful thing to have the Carlotta running on the Ipswich River and Parker River. Everyone enjoyed the river. Howard C. Dodge of 4 Hovey St. had 20 boats to let that two or three could row, and some Sundays he would have to hire some boats of the clammers to take care of his customers. There was a hotel at Little Neck. The Ipswich Bluffs was one of the first places along the coast where you could have a wonderful shore dinner. At Grape Island they ran an excellent hotel. The same at the Parker River Pavilion, they always put on a good feed." Near the town wharf, 1930 River View Cash Market, 1935. Photo courtesy of Robert Cronin, who wrote his memories of his father’s store on the Town Wharf:“Looking at the space where it stood, you can’t believe that it fit in that area. And yet, we dispensed all kinds of groceries, meats, etc. Fried Clams were sold on weekends. We dug and shucked ou clams. Also, the farther end of the building was a workshop run by Vernal Smith. There are a couple of reasons I wax nostalgic looking at these photos: I spent most of my high school years working in the store up until I went into the Navy. Both of my brothers were smart–they played football. So, I was elected to work in the store.The one thing that kept my morale up while in the navy was the thought of returning to the store and taking up where I left off. Murphy’s Law took over. The building needed too many repairs, and staple goods were hard to get, thus the dream disappeared, but many memories linger on, and these forgotten photos bring them back.” Ipswich town wharf, beside Fred Cronin's store, 1935 Ipswich wharf 1935 The Town Wharf: As early as 1641, this area was built up with wharves for shipping. Some of the many items shipped were lumber, lime, sand, coal and granite. Over time there were many individuals involved in the shipping industry here. A continuous wharf wall was built in 1865. In 1663, a brewery and warehouse were built here. The large boulder in the river across from the wharf is known as Ring Bolt Rock. It was used by ships to navigate the turn in the narrow channel. At the end of Agawam Avenue was another shipyard operated by the Choate Family. There was a wharf on the other side of the river in 1692, Early settler Daniel Hovey built a wharf along the river below Tansey Lane. (from An Industrial History of the Ipswich River). Ringbolt rock, boats and wharves by George Dexter Agawam Ave., just beyond the Wharf Heading out from the wharf, Ringbolt rock is on the right This photo of Little Neck was taken around 1864, when it was still being used as summer pasturage. The photographer is unknown. Little Neck, circa 1900 Wreck of the the Edward S. Evelyth or the Ada K. Damon. View from Steep Hill: Ipswich River and Plum Island Sound. Little Neck is upper left. Photo by George Dexter Schooner at the mouth of the Ipswich River.
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